Russian folk sarafans have always been an art. Despite the many decorations, patterns and ribbons, it is made very simply. Can be worn at any time of the year. This article talks about how to construct a pattern for a Russian sarafan and what types there are.
Story
On a par with people from the highest nobility stood the traditional sarafan in the Russian style, which retained its design unchanged for many centuries. The most ancient models looked like a dress and were made from a single piece of fabric with a round or rectangular cut in the center (to put it on over the head). There were also other varieties of this product, for special occasions. Below are described the features and varieties of sarafans.
Features of a sarafan
The main feature of sarafans is that they were made from specially made fabrics. In the 19th century, almost all products were natural colors and were not dyed. With the development of sewing production, it became possible to purchase materials of different colors and sew clothes for the whole family.
Please note! This product has distinctive elements. The traditional sarafan is always decorated with various amulets that were so loved by peasants.
For example, the edges of the product were always decorated with various embroidery, sometimes very heavy.
These symbols were a kind of amulets that protected against the evil eye or damage. A distinctive feature was the image on the back, which is called a "frog" or "fork". This sign is very similar to a frog, and many consider it a sign of wealth and luxury. Girls from ancient times believed that such a frog protected the whole family from adversity. Below is how to sew a Russian folk sarafan with your own hands.
Fabric for work
Materials for work must be selected very carefully.
The fabric should be natural and multi-colored for sundresses, light for shirts for women, and plain for trousers, with a small pattern for shirts for guys.
If a woman cannot decide on the choice of pattern, then a single-color material is taken, onto which a wide ribbon with a floral pattern is sewn.
The best materials are silk or chintz, satin fabric is also acceptable. Sometimes fine lace is used for decoration, it looks quite nice with the red color of the suit. The shirt is usually made of cotton material, it should be breathable.
Types of sarafans
There are several main varieties.
Sundress in the form of a tunic with oblique wedges
This model of the product will be the oldest. It existed until the end of the 18th century and was called "shushun" or "sayan". The main feature of such a product was its solid front panel.
Its most ancient model - a closed sarafan in the form of a tunic - was made from one piece of material folded in half, forming both parts of the garment. There were wide wedges on the sides.
Swing type product
This sarafan was made from three pieces of material - two fronts and one back. At the hem of the garment, two oblique short wedges were inserted into its side seams, which gave the dress a visual expansion. The sarafan was buttoned in the front. The straps were sewn wide or narrow, cut out together with the back part from one piece of material.
Round model of a sundress
The most widespread and widely used almost throughout Rus' in the 19th century was the Moscow type of product. It is distinguished by its tenderness and airiness when walking, although it seems like a weighty suit.
Sundress with a bodice
This will be a subtype of a round sarafan with only a bodice. It was made of two parts: a lush gathered bottom and a bodice that tightly covered the chest. It was fastened in the middle of the chest with buttons or loops. Such dresses were popular in central Rus'. Such a suit is more suitable for girls with large breasts, the bodice will tightly hold the bust and emphasize its shape. An elastic band must be sewn under the chest line so that the fabric does not press on the body.
A Russian women's shirt under a sarafan is made according to the pattern shown in Figure 2.
It was believed that the more magnificent and long the costume, the more charming and innocent its owner.
How to take measurements
To draw a pattern correctly, you need to know the measurements - the volume of the chest and back. You won't be able to do this yourself, so you can call your mother or friend for help. During measurements, the girl should stand still and not slouch. The volume of the chest is measured by the most convex point on it and the protrusion of the shoulder blades on the back. The centimeter should not fit tightly to the body.
If desired, you can measure the width of the chest and the width of the back. In this case, you need to measure the distance from the armpits along the widest protrusion of the chest. Then exactly the same from the armpits, but along the line of the shoulder blades. Measurements should be taken twice to make sure they are correct.
For example, for a height of 165 cm, one piece of fabric of 2 meters is needed, it is always better to take with a reserve of 0.5 meters. Because in any case there may be errors when working, it is better to cut off the excess than to completely remake the product and add fabric.
Step by step sewing
The finished drawing should be applied to the canvas and secured with pins. They should be outlined with chalk or a textile marker, while not forgetting to add allowances of 2 cm. Then the work is carried out step by step:
- First, you need to sweep the side edges of the yokes. It is advisable to immediately process the upper part with a ribbon. This is one of the easiest options. Sew a satin ribbon in the middle of the front part;
- Next, you need to align the side cuts, secure them with pins and sew them on a sewing machine;
- It is advisable to stitch the edge of the sarafan with colored ribbon and do this until the end of the product;
- The top of the product should be stitched with a center line for comfortable assembly, which should be the same width as the yoke;
- Now you need to sew the yoke to the bottom of the sundress;
- Fold the straps in half, make a braid on them and sew them to the dress;
- Decorate the product as desired.
Russian sarafan pattern for an adult can be drawn either independently or simply downloaded from the Internet. When constructing the drawing yourself, you can give the product originality.
Additional details
The traditional sarafan is a formal garment. It is complemented by a large pattern along the bottom. It is mainly made using appliques from patterned fabric in bright colors (red or orange).
The pattern looks more like a straight line with small diamonds on the sides. The top is decorated with a red cotton piping. The neck and sleeves of the shirt can be decorated with satin braid.
Please note! In ancient times, by the color and cut of the product, one could find out what family the girl came from: whether she was rich or not, whether she had a husband. Wealthy ladies wore a lot of expensive jewelry on their dresses.
A classic suit will also require a kokoshnik. You can make it yourself or buy it in an online store.
You can perfectly complement the image with various decorations, for example, a Slavic necklace or bracelets. You can sew fringe or tassels on the sleeves. The kokoshnik is usually decorated with beads or beads. The brighter the finished image is, the more it will convey the style of Russian girls of the 18th century. Traditional women's costumes are still considered the hallmark of Russia. Many tourists first of all buy a kokoshnik or a Russian shirt for themselves, as a souvenir of their trip to our country.
In conclusion, it should be noted that sewing a traditional Russian sarafan is not as difficult as it seems. It is made from just a few large pieces of fabric. You only need to have minimal sewing skills, it is even possible to sew it without using a machine. Such a product can be made for both little girls and women. It is suitable for a matinee in the garden or a performance at a holiday. Even a novice seamstress can handle the work, it is only important to take the measurements correctly.
