All about patterns and sewing dresses with cut out and open shoulders

Choosing a dress is a very long and responsible task. In recent years, self-sewing of products has become popular. This will help a girl to be original and luxurious. This article tells how to sew a dress with open shoulders with your own hands and what is needed for this.

Off the Shoulder Dress Styles

A floor-length dress with open shoulders is perfect for weddings. In such a product, the bride looks truly gentle and sweet. The open top will perfectly emphasize the collarbones, and will also keep the emphasis on the hairstyle. To add sensuality to the image, you can make a train from tulle with the addition of flowers.

The best option for a beautiful universal look is a bandeau dress. The name is translated from French as a ribbon. A small fitted dress gently hugs the body, focusing attention on the décolleté and shoulders. With the help of a corset, you can eliminate figure flaws.

A bandeau dress can be of different lengths, but it always looks luxurious. If the dress is floor-length, then deep slits will look great in it. In winter, you can wear a knitted sweater dress. It goes well with woolen leggings or trousers. As for footwear, it is better to wear low boots or shoes.

Evening dresses with open shoulders, made of light flowing materials, look spectacular and original. Large skirt, asymmetrical bottom, deep neckline with flounces - it turns out the style of girls from the 40s.

A denim garment with long sleeves, slightly dropped from the shoulders, fits well into the fashionable image typical of the modern world. The hairstyle can be a careless ponytail or a bun. Guipure, knitwear or tulle can be used as a fabric.

Cutting and sewing

A correctly constructed pattern is already half the success when sewing. It is quite difficult to make it for such dresses. Therefore, before work, it is better to watch several video tutorials. Below is a description of how to make a pattern for an open-shoulder sleeve. Such clothes can be sewn not only for women, but also for little girls.

We divide the upper part of the rectangle into three zones: the back zone, the armhole zone, and the chest zone.

• Back width is the back width measurement divided by two;
• Armhole width - half-girth of the chest: 4 + 2 cm (you need to divide Po by four and add two);
• The width of the chest area is what will be left over.

Neckline and shoulder line

To do this, you need to know the width of the neck, it is equal to 1/3 of the neck circumference with an allowance of 0.5 cm.

The height of the neckline cut above the rectangle is equal to 1/4 of the half-girth of the neck with an allowance of 0.7 cm.

It is necessary to divide the half-girth of the neck by 3 and add 0.5 cm. This distance is measured at the top point to the right. Thus, the width of the neck was found, a mark should be placed on it.

Now this mark needs to be raised higher above the rectangle. Divide the half-girth of the neck by 4+ 0.7 cm and put a mark at this distance.

Armholes of the back and front

You need to find the height of the armhole. It is equal to the half-girth of the chest plus an allowance of 1 cm. The armhole is sought based on the person's measurements, it is desirable that it does not press into the skin.

Once this number is found, you need to measure down from the edge of the shoulder this distance and make a mark.

This way, not only the armhole was found, but also the chest line. This is one of the main measurements on the pattern.

The bust line should be clear and even. You need to measure the distance from this mark to the top edge of the dress template square with a measuring tape. Then measure this value along the two sides of the sketch, make marks and connect them with a line.

Next, you need to construct an armhole for the back.

The lower outer armhole mark is usually in the center of the armhole area near the chest. Measure the armhole area with a tape measure - find the center and put a mark.

Neckline, shoulder and bust dart

You need to find the width of the neck (half-girth of the neck with an allowance of 1 cm) - measure it from the corner of the sketch to the right and put a mark.

Next, you need to raise the edge of the neckline; it will be 2-4 cm higher than the chest line.

Measure this length upwards from the point of the chest - and raise the edge of the neckline to this level. Initially, it may seem that the point is raised too much, but this is correct. The more lush the figure, the larger the horizontal plane of the shoulder, and therefore the point rises higher.

Chest dart

What rules do you need to know:

The point of the bust dart does not extend beyond the bust line.

The point of the bust dart must coincide with the top of the bust (the measurement of the middle of the bust is needed here).

How to find the width of the dart is described below.

What needs to be done:

Find the top of the chest on the finished template. To do this, you need to measure half the measurement of the middle of the chest at the point of the chest from the left edge of the sketch and add allowances.

Dividing the pattern into a back piece and a front piece.

What needs to be done:

Measure the width of the armhole area. Divide it into 3 equal parts - two marks. And through the right mark draw a line upwards. This is how the front and back of the dress are made.

Waist and hip line

Measure the waistline level - from the top of the drawing, mark the back length point down and make a segment.

Measure the level of the hip line, to do this, put down ½ of the back length measurement from the waist and make a straight line.

On the left side of the sketch, mark points that will be 2 cm below the lines - bend the line to this point.

Widening at the hips and rounding at the bottom

Find the difference in the figures for the half-hips and half-chest.

Next, this figure needs to be divided by two. This way, you can understand how much the bottom of the dress needs to be widened.

On the line you need to mark 2 cm on both sides from the front side line (put marks).

At the hem point of the drawing, you need to set aside 2 cm on both sides; if the bottom is wide, then increase this value.

Connect these marks with a smooth line, making the side lines of the bottom of the shelf and back. The lines need to overlap.

Dress assembly

You need to take the material that will be gathered. For example, tulle. It will be difficult for a beginner seamstress to work with it, so you can take thin cotton.

Make one line on the fabric, making an indent from the edge equal to the size of the foot 5 mm, then make a second line and an indent.

Now you need to take the two upper (or lower) ends of the yarn and start pulling them together, in the same way as you usually pull the thread when unraveling the fabric. The gathering will be very small. When there is enough gathering, the threads need to be secured with a knot so that it does not unravel.

For beginners, you can try sewing a dress with elastic on the shoulders; this will be a summer version of the product with a simpler pattern.

Choosing decorations for a dress

Choosing jewelry is an important part of buying an off-the-shoulder dress. You need to choose accessories that not only attract the eye, but also do not take all the attention to themselves.

When choosing accessories, you need to look at the dress model. If it has a lot of buttons, rivets, etc., then there should be a minimum of decorations. Large, bright accessories will be out of place in the morning and during the day, but they will be suitable for a festive day or an evening out on a date. Basically, hoop earrings or studs are worn with an off-shoulder dress.

In conclusion, it should be noted that sewing a dress yourself is quite a difficult task. A novice needlewoman may encounter problems already at the stage of taking measurements. Therefore, craftsmen recommend watching several master classes and finding patterns for dresses with cutouts on the shoulders on the Internet before sewing.