Today, there are many options to look beautiful, elegant and unique. No one is surprised anymore when dresses or shirts have gathers or fringe. A great addition to any outfit is a peplum, what it is and how it is sewn on will be described in detail in this article.
What is a Basque?
One of the options for finishing a product is a peplum. It is usually used to trim a skirt, dress, jacket and blouse. It should be sewn along the waistline in the form of a flounce or frill. The peplum is distinguished by shape and size. It can be long and short, one-piece and cut as a separate piece. It can also differ in edges. Asymmetrical and even edges are distinguished. If you use your imagination, you can give any product an amazing look with the help of a peplum. If the blouse is chosen correctly for the skirt, the outfit will be elegant and fashionable.
How to cut a peplum
Experienced craftsmen make patterns from peplum in three ways:
- half sun and sun;
- gathers and folds;
- options where individual imagination is demonstrated.
In the first case, the option is considered classic and can be presented in the form of a mini skirt, a sun or a half-sun. The principle of constructing the detail is the same as the skirt pattern. The only difference is the length, it needs to be made a little shorter.
In the second case, the sewing process is much easier than in the first. To cut out this detail, you need to prepare a rectangular fabric. When choosing the length of the rectangle, you should take into account the desired splendor of the folds, and you need to measure fabric twice as large as the waist circumference.
The third option is the most unpredictable. It is not limited to any one template. Here everything is based on the master's imagination. This type of finishing can be placed on the side or on the back. In a word, everything that the master's imagination can come up with.
How to sew on a peplum
An important aspect when sewing on a peplum is that the finished piece should be tried on beforehand. To make it easier to determine where exactly to sew it on and what length and width the peplum will be. In addition, the peplum can be positioned so that it will give the figure some graceful features or, on the contrary, hide flaws.
It is best to cut on the bias. However, there are situations when it is impossible to do this, for example, in the case of lower cuts. To give the decorative element a shape, you can sew a fishing line along the edges of the parts.
You need to work with the fringe when all the darts have been stitched.
DIY sun basque dress pattern
With the help of a peplum, an ordinary sheath dress can be transformed into an elegant, beautiful dress that is suitable for both everyday wear and a corporate party.
To make a pattern for a dress with a peplum, you need to use a regular basic dress pattern. You can find such a pattern on the Internet or make it yourself, according to your measurements.
Construction of the pattern
There is a lot of information on how to do this correctly, but in any case, you should follow some recommendations. The pattern of the back and front parts must be cut in half. Then you need to move on to modeling the top of the dress and the frills themselves.
On the front and back pieces there is a waist level and 3 cm is laid upwards from it. The resulting piece must be cut out and stitched along the dart line.
Next, the front darts need to be moved. Using a template, mark the relief of the back and front. Having cut out the resulting pattern, cut the front dart and close it.
Modeling a Basque
To cut out the fringe, first of all, you need to calculate the radius of the cut. It is calculated using the formula: subtract one centimeter from 1/6 of the waist circumference. Based on that circumference, you need to build a semicircle, put aside the length of the piece from it, and draw the second half of the circle.
Sewing a dress
To make the product, thick dress materials are suitable, they will hold their shape well. You can use gabardine or crepe, or mixed types of material.
To calculate the amount of material, you need to add two peplum lengths to the length of the dress and another 50 cm.
From the prepared knitwear you need to prepare the following:
- cutouts of the middle part of the back bodice (2 pieces);
- cutouts of the side part of the back bodice (2 pieces);
- fabric from the middle part of the bodice fold;
- fabric for the side part of the bodice (2 pieces);
- piece of the attached back belt (2 pieces);
- section with a fold of the front panel of the skirt;
- section of the back panel of the skirt (2 pieces);
- fringe blanks (2 pieces).
Before you start, you need to work on the inner allowances. They need to be overcast, and then all the seams need to be ironed well.
The first thing you need to do is start stitching the relief seams on the back and front bodice. Then stitch the darts on the skirt fabric.
Next, stitch the side seams on the skirt and bodice. Now you need to overcast, fold and sew with a blind stitch. Having folded the product and the assembly with the right sides together, baste along the waistline from the back side. Now the bodice can be basted to the skirt.
Then treat the armholes and neckline with one-piece facings.
How to sew a blouse with a peplum
A beautiful gathered shirt and its pattern are made quite easily, even a non-professional can handle it.
Attention! The base for the top can be a T-shirt with sleeves. You can easily find a T-shirt pattern on the Internet.
The length of the T-shirt should only be up to the waist, because the jersey starts from the waist line.
Having found the necessary patterns, transfer them to the fabric and cut them out. Then you can start sewing. First, you need to sew the shoulder seams. Then sew in the sleeves and stitch the side seams. Be sure not to forget to process the neckline.
To create a peplum, fold the fabric in half and mark the radius. To calculate the radius, measure the back of the lower edge and the front. Then divide the resulting number by pi and subtract 1.7 cm.
Cut out the fringe and fold it in half, if you apply it to the bottom edge of the blouse, they should match. Then stitch the side edge on the peplum, apply the raw edge to the blouse and stitch on the machine.
At the end, all the lower edges are processed, and the blouse can be worn.
Pattern and sewing of a jacket with a peplum
Jacquard and suit fabric, gabardine, boucle, suede, corduroy and some natural materials are perfect for sewing a jacket. The fabric to choose depends on the season for which the jacket is being sewn.
You will need a material measuring 1.5*1.5. The fastener, preferably a zipper, should be selected based on the size of the jacket. In addition, you may need interlining to reinforce the sides and stand-up collar of the jacket.
The finished pattern is transferred to the fabric and sewing begins. Particular attention when sewing a jacket should be paid to such a part as the basque belt, its pattern is also not complicated. The inner part of the belt should be made of a softer material. This will contribute to the optimal operation of the elastic band inside. The size of the belt is calculated according to individual measurements. It should also be remembered that you need to take measurements well, the jacket should not restrict the shoulders and arms.
Attention! The sewing process itself can be found on the Internet by watching various master classes.
Pattern and sewing of a top with a peplum
The pattern for making the top will consist of two parts: the back shelf and the peplum. For such a top, it is better to use dress or blouse fabric, spatula, silk and crepe.
After taking measurements from the back and front, you can start cutting the top. If you have any difficulties, you can use video tutorials on the Internet. After the top is ready, you need to sew the peplum to it.
It is not difficult to sew a dress with a peplum, as in any other business, you need to have patience. At present, this is a very popular trend and every girl in such an outfit will look elegant and exclusive.
