In different fabrics, the weft and warp threads are interwoven differently. The properties of the material depend significantly on it: relief, shine, strength, and features of use. There are a small number of basic types (for example, plain weave) and derivative variants. Each type of weave has its own important features that must be taken into account when working with fabrics.
Types of fabric weaves
The quality of the material depends not only on its material, but also on its structure. It consists of two threads: the warp and the weft. The first of them is arranged in rows, and the second is attached to the shuttle. The weft moves back and forth, located between the warp threads. The places where the threads intersect are called overlaps. There are two types of it:
- The main overlap is when the warp thread is positioned above the weft thread on the front side.
- Weft overlap occurs when they are arranged in opposite directions.
The simplest way to arrange the threads is to arrange them every other thread. However, some fabrics use more complex options.
Weaves are divided into basic and derivative. The first ones include plain, twill, satin and satin. The remaining types are made on the basis of the listed ones and are called derivatives.
The shift is the distance between the closest similar overlaps. They are of two types:
- Vertical, when considering the number of weft threads between warp overlaps.
- In the horizontal, the main lines between the nearest duckbills are considered.
If you look closely at a fabric pattern, you will notice that it is regularly repeated. A repeating pattern of interlacing of threads in a fabric is called a "rapport". This word refers not only to the repeating section of the pattern, but also to its size (the number of threads vertically and horizontally that it consists of).
Plain weave
This method of thread arrangement is considered one of the simplest. The following types of cotton fabrics are arranged in this way: cambric, calico, taffeta, marquise, poplin, calico, marquisette and chintz.
Plain weaving of threads is used in the creation of linen fabrics. These include: canvas, canvas and lining.
This method is also used in silk fabrics: crepe marocain, crepe chiffon, crepe georgette and crepe de chine.
The plain weave pattern is used in woolen fabrics: broadcloth, a number of different fabrics for dresses or suits.
In addition, this method is used to produce homespun fabric.
Next, we should talk about linen fabric, what it is and what its main properties are:
- high degree of resistance to mechanical impacts;
- matte surface;
- smoothness;
- with this type of weaving, both sides of the material (front and back) are the same;
- If the material is made of strong threads, then it is rigid.
These types of fabrics, due to the simplicity of their design, appeared earlier than other options.
Their most widespread use is as a material for making home textiles. These fabrics have a clearly visible relief. This fully applies to silk fabrics. Woolen fabrics woven in this way are light and durable.
This woven fabric is more resistant to aggressive washing.
Twill weave
In fabrics made with this weave, you can see a diagonal rib. The reason for this is that the crossing occurs using an asymmetric shift. The 2 to 1 or 3 to 1 options can be used.
This method is used in the production of twill, semi-silk lining fabrics made on a cotton base.
When creating a semi-silk fabric with a silk warp and a cotton weft, the twill weave is used as the main weave. This can also be said about semi-wool fabrics made with a wool warp and a cotton weft.
Important! The twill weave of threads forms a very dense material. Therefore, this method is used to create fabrics for military or technical needs. Such well-known fabrics as tweed and denim are made using this type of weave.
This method is used in the creation of industrial carbon fiber fabric.
In the production of gabardine, the same type of fabric is used as the warp and weft - merino. A double twisted thread is used as the warp, and a single thread is used for the weft. In this case, a complex twill weave is used. At the same time, a small rib is easily visible on the front side, which is located at an angle of 60-70 degrees.
This material is often used to sew women's and men's coats for the spring-summer season. It is also used to sew some types of officer's uniforms.
Plain and twill weaves are the most common methods.
Crepe weaves
This method of making fabric is a derivative of plain weaving and tatting. In crepe weaving, the threads are arranged more chaotically. Such fabric is harder to wrinkle and does not crumble at the cutting lines.
Ribbed weaves
With this type of weaving, you can see raised ribs on the front side. They can be located straight or obliquely. Each rapport contains two ribs.
Translucent weaves
This is the method used to make openwork translucent materials. Several types of alternating weaves can be used for this. This is the method used to make fabric for blouses and dresses.
To form gaps, alternating long and short overlaps are used. The former tighten the fabric in certain areas, while the latter serve as their boundaries. Gaps appear in places where the groups are separated.
Satin weave
The word "atlas" is translated from Arabic as "smooth". It reflects the features of the appearance. In satin fabric, the weft comes out on the front side through five or more warp threads. This achieves a visual sensation of smoothness of the front side.
Satin uses a similar method of weaving threads.
There are two main types of such matter:
- plain and smooth;
- patterned.
This material is used to make not only clothes, but also some types of footwear (for example, pointe shoes). Satin is used to make tuxedos and various types of church vestments.
It is used for upholstery or as beautiful fabric wallpaper. Another use of satin is the production of flags.
Satin weave has been known for many centuries. It was used in Ancient Rus' and Byzantium.
These types of fabric are more slippery and have a high shear rate.
Rep weave
This type of weaving resembles linen, but the arrangement of the threads is more sparse. Such fabric has clearly visible ribs on the surface.
Due to the different structure, fabric with a rep weave feels softer to the touch than plain fabric.
Important! Due to the presence of ribs, special care must be taken to ensure that the cutting direction is the same.
Rogozhka weave
This type of weaving is similar to plain weaving, taking into account that instead of each single thread, when using a matting, two adjacent threads are used.
The advantage of this type of weaving is its increased density. This material is softer and more elastic than linen.
The weave of the sackcloth is used in the creation of cotton and linen fabrics. It is used for some varieties of wool and semi-woolen suit or dress material.
Broken twill
The diagonal lines inherent in such fabrics change their direction. On the material, you can see lines arranged in a herringbone pattern. This option is one of the varieties of twill.
Some cotton and wool fabrics are made using broken twill. The patterns are arranged so that the orientation of the weave alternates. Often, different types of twill weaves are used to achieve the desired effect.
When choosing the right material, it is important to consider its features. Knowing the types of fabric weaves will help you choose the material that will work best.
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