Making a pattern and sewing a bustier yourself

A corset-type top that fits tightly around the figure is called a bustier. It will be a great addition to an evening outfit or part of a girl's summer outfit. With the help of a bustier, you can emphasize the waist and chest line. For those who do not like to spend a lot of time in stores, sewing a bustier top yourself can solve this problem.

The first question that a beginner will face is how not to make a mistake with the size. In the standard case, the half-girth of the chest is taken to determine the size. In this situation, you also need to take into account the size of the cups. To determine it, you need to take your favorite bra and measure the distance from the arch bones.

Selection of fabric and accessories

How to sew a bustier yourself? A dense non-knitted material is suitable for this. It should be remembered that when choosing a fabric, you need to consider that the inner side will be adjacent to the body. Cotton is perfect for this. It will serve as a lining, thanks to which all internal seams will be covered and will not irritate the skin. When sewing the outer side, you can use denim, cotton or thick linen. Beginner craftswomen can easily cut out any top, because on the Internet you can find any pattern made of elastic materials and even guipure.

To sew a bustier top, you will need the same amount of both outer and inner fabric. You can determine the required amount of fabric using a pattern: you need to lay it out on the fabric and, leaving a few centimeters for allowances, trace the pattern. In addition, you need to decide in advance what size the bustier will be, so that it does not turn out that there is not enough material.

To give the product a shape, you can use regilin. It needs to be sewn into the relief seams. Due to the fact that the bustier is made with a lining, it will be very easy to sew in the bones.

Construction of a product pattern

Bustier top - the pattern is made from certain components:

• bust and underbust circumference;
• waist circumference;
• hip circumference;
• back length to waist;
• armhole depth;
• hip height;
• shoulder length;
• half neck girth;
• front waist length;
• front waist length including the distance under the chest;
• chest height.

Once the measurements have been taken, you need to start cutting out the bodice.

Modeling

In order to sew a bustier yourself, you first need to decide how long it will be. Then cut off the lower part along the contour of the cup and cut it along the contour of the darts. This way you get two parts for the front and back. Then you need to cut the cup and sew the upper dart. This way you get another dart at the place of the cut. You can round the top of the cup. This way you get the upper and lower parts of the cup.

Cut

Before cutting, it is advisable to wash and iron the fabric. It is worth noting that if the fabric has a pattern, then the pattern of each detail must be made in the direction in which the sketch is placed. It is essential to pay attention to the direction of the grain line, it must run in a parallel direction to the length of the product. Do not forget to leave allowances of at least 1 cm for all seams.

The bustier pattern begins with taking measurements:

• 2 main parts of the front part;
• 2 side parts of the front part;
• 2 side back pieces;
• 1 back piece with a fold;
• 2 lower cups;
• 2 upper cups;
• 2 straps.

For the lining you also need to cut out:

• 2 front main parts;
• 2 side front pieces;
• 2 side back pieces;
• 2 medium back pieces;
• 2 lower cups;
• 2 upper cups;
• 2 straps.

In addition, you will need a clasp and regilin.

1. Sew the lower and upper halves of the cups.
2. Sew the back from the main and lining fabric. Don't touch the middle seam yet.
3. Sew the front pieces together, iron the allowances on the main piece in one direction, and on the lining piece in the opposite direction.
4. Sew the regilin onto the reinforced seams, melting it beforehand.
5. Sew the cups and the front part of the lining fabric.
6. Sew the cups of the main fabric.
7. Sew the cups and the front part of the main material. Sew the middle seam on the lining fabric, leaving a few centimeters in the center.
8. You can baste the zipper to the front halves of the main fabric.
9. Place the straps of both materials with the right sides together. Stitch along the sides, turn inside out and iron.
10. Try on the finished piece to determine at what length to sew the straps.
11. Place the bustier from both materials with the right sides facing inwards and sew everything along the contour.
12. Adjust all the uneven areas, sew everything that remains, and you can consider the bustier ready.

The arrangement of the "bones"

To properly sew knitting needles into the cups, you need to follow a certain step-by-step algorithm of actions:

The first thing you need to do is sew on the pockets for the regilin. And you need to place the knitting needles:

• along the middle seam of the back, on each side of the fastener;
• by half a drift at a distance of half a centimeter;
• at a distance of three centimeters from the curve of the cup;
• along the back, where the 1st and 3rd bones are located;
• under the cup, where the 2nd and 3rd bones are located.

How to assemble the cups

After the cups are sewn in, you can begin to assemble the bustier. The main principle when working is precision. For the seams to be symmetrical, the notch of the "top" piece should be aligned with the stitching seam of the "side" and "middle". To give the cup density, you can make it double.

When using a trim cup, you need to trim them to size yourself before covering them.

How to treat a bustier top

The cup should be finished starting from the area where there is no arch bone. Apply the main fabric to the wrong side of the cup with the front side, align all the cuts evenly and stitch a straight line from the ends of the bone from one to the other. Then lay the second line, do not forget to make small folds or gathers.

Then the excess tissue must be removed, leaving half a centimeter of tissue protruding onto the bone.

The lower and upper parts are processed with a hem seam. Before this, the edges must be pre-sewn.

Experienced craftsmen can process the edges with bias binding. However, you will have to make the binding yourself, because store-bought ones are fragile and ironed incorrectly. Crepe satin or thick silk can be used to make the binding.

When sewing a bustier, it is important not to forget about the fastener. The simplest option is a separable zipper or a ribbon with hooks and loops.

Sewing on silicone tape

This type of fittings is widely used in sewing. With its help, you can easily stabilize seams and gathers. But not everyone knows how to sew a silicone band to a bra.

To sharpen the silicone tape, you need to use a foot with a Teflon coating.

When buying a band, remember that you always need more than even a regular elastic band. Silicone bands are often used to prevent stretching. If you take a 1 to 1 ratio of the band, the band will stretch, but return to its original shape.

The silicone band can be easily sewn onto the bra. The bra with silicone inserts over the seams will fit the figure perfectly. Such a retro top will gracefully emphasize all the charms of the figure.

To sew a silicone band to a bra, you need to take a silicone band and sew it along the seams that fit the bones. The master class will tell you how to sew a silicone band to a dress.

Famous designers love to present fashionable bustier dresses with a slight retro flair to the public. This type of outfit always occupies a leading position in the fashion world. Many masters tell in detail how to sew a bustier dress. You can also see their detailed works at the master class.

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