Features of the pattern and sewing of a pencil skirt

Skirts have always been popular, since the 18th century. Every year more and more models are released, with different flounces, wraps or inserts. These products will never go out of fashion, only the length changes. This article tells how to sew a pencil skirt with your own hands and what you need for this.

How to choose fabric

This style of skirt is suitable for girls with any type of figure. When choosing a material, you need to consider not only the shape of the body, but also the time of year in which the skirt will be worn, the area of ​​use.

Key nuances:

• You should not buy loose fabrics (for example, organza, georgette). They do not hold their shape well and require the use of linings;
• For creating summer and spring skirts, it is better to use jersey or linen. For winter ones, gabardine, tweed or wool.
• Rigid materials look good on beautiful hips, while soft textures look good on full hips.

Since a pencil skirt is a strict style, it is better to take single-color fabrics. For example, a black product can be combined with any clothes.

If you make a bright skirt with a wrap or buttons, then it can be used for going out. Fabrics should be purchased exclusively in textile stores, and not second-hand. Since low-quality materials can not only crumble, but also cause irritation on the skin, which looks very unpleasant. Before buying, it is better to consult with the seller, he will help determine the type of fabric for the appropriate season. For ease of work, all needlewomen recommend buying a textile roller, it is convenient to cut out elements with it.

What is needed for cutting and sewing

Basic tools for work:

• Prepare material to choose from;
• Textile marker;
• Skirt pattern;
• Threads with needles;
• Scissors and a tape measure.

If the needlewoman does not have much experience in sewing, it is better to first make the pattern on paper and then transfer it to the canvas. Paper or cardboard can be used as a base. You can seek help on needlework websites, where experienced craftswomen will help you decide on the stages of work.

How to take measurements correctly

If a person does not have an assistant, it is better to take measurements in front of a large mirror.

Tie a thread around your waist, but do not pull it too tightly, it should be pleasant to the body. Next, you need to stand sideways in front of the mirror and take measurements from your hips using a tape measure. You need to pay attention to the fact that the tape measure passes through the convex points of the buttocks.

The waist should be measured with a thread, and the length with a tape measure in front of a mirror. You can't bend over, otherwise the product will be short. To make the work easier, you can simply take measurements from an old skirt if it fits.

It is advisable to add 3 cm to the finished length measurement. It is very difficult to choose the length for this style of skirt the first time, since everyone has different buttocks, hips and legs. The length is determined after a control fitting. It is better to write down the measurements on paper: hip volume, waist volume, length.

However, most tailors recommend using an assistant when taking measurements. Since it is much easier for an outsider to take measurements, plus he can look at and photograph the skirt during the fitting to understand what adjustments are needed.

Calculations

To sew a pencil skirt correctly, you need to know what calculations are necessary. Namely, these are the parameters of the figure (hips, waist and skirt length). And also the amount of material for work. It is always better to take with a reserve, if something can be sewn from scraps. If there is not enough fabric, then the work will have to be done again, or supplement the existing fabric. But it will be very difficult for novice tailors to do this.

How to sew different models

Even a novice craftswoman can sew such a skirt according to the drawing. First, you need to choose the size of the fabric: the width, according to the rule, is half of the hip size with allowances of 3 cm, and the length is equal to two lengths of the product with a small reserve for folds. Then you can start sewing the product, below are described various styles of skirts. If a print or bright geometric shapes were chosen as the fabric, then when sewing, you need to do so that all the joints are connected together and the pattern is whole, and not in pieces.

Straight classic pencil skirt

Step-by-step work process:

• The darts need to be folded and ironed well towards the center;
• Sew the center seam on the back side and finish the vent;

• Baste and iron the side seams. If you don't have an overlock, you can zigzag the edges to prevent them from fraying;
• Sew in a zipper, sew on a belt and buttons. I wish to make loops so that I could hang the skirt on hangers;
• Process the bottom. It is advisable to do this manually with an invisible seam.

After work, you can optionally add a small belt or decorate them with lace trim. In such clothes, you can not only go to work, but also go for a walk. Lace adds more tenderness and femininity.

High Waist Pencil Skirt

For a high waist, the basic pattern needs to be edited a little:

• The upper straight line of the waist must be raised by 6 cm and mark A1 must be made there;
• Point A needs to be shifted to the right by 1 cm;
• Connect points A2, A and B1 with a rounded line.

When cutting fabric for this style of skirt, it is important not to forget about the 2 cm allowances.

Before the final stage of sewing, it is necessary to try it on again and baste everything. If necessary, you can sew a small elastic band into the belt or sew a zipper on the side. This will visually emphasize the hips. If the hips are narrow and there are no buttocks, then the situation can be corrected by small folds along the bottom.

How to sew a pencil skirt without side seams

The process of constructing a pattern for a classic seamless skirt basically comes down to tapering along the side seams and constructing a slit on the back side for a loose fit.

Along the hem, you need to set aside the desired narrowing figure from the side seam line, which can be up to 2 cm, depending on the type of material and the type of skirt. From the bottom point, you now need to lower the lines to the mark, located 8 centimeters below the intersection of the hip point with the side seam point.

Because the bottom line will approach the side line at a right angle, it needs to be edited using a pattern. The front side of the garment does not need to be changed.

The change of the back side depends on the method of designing the back slit. The easiest way, without changing the back panel of the pencil skirt, except for the side narrowing, is to simply fold the edges of the slit inward and process it so that the V-shaped neckline is upside down.

Of course, it is recommended to make a vent at the back, and for this it will be necessary to change the pattern of the back side. For the vent, it is advisable to make an additional allowance of 7 centimeters. To make an allowance, the back panel must be cut in two halves, and then make a connecting seam.

How to make a pattern for a skirt with a yoke

When using a yoke, the lower part of the product can be different. This is a "half-sun", and "Spanish", and "balloon", in this case it will be a pencil. Also, the lower part of the product can be with flounces or a wrap.

First, you need to make a drawing of a classic skirt with a yoke, where the line connecting the yoke to the hem of the garment runs parallel to the waist.

On the basic pattern you can generally make many different styles. If you can't make it yourself, you can look for it in different master classes.

How to cut a belt

Step-by-step process for making a belt for a skirt:

• First, assemble both parts of the belt separately, stitching the central parts with the side parts and laces;
• On one side of the central part you need to leave an unsewn corner 2 cm wide for the lace;
• Iron the seams of each belt piece;
• Next, the elements of the upper and lower sides of the belt need to be fixed along the entire length. It is important that the holes match;
• Baste the fastened elements along the perimeter, making an open section 6 cm long at the bottom;
• Then the belt must be turned inside out, straightened and ironed well;
• Sew up the open area with an invisible stitch. Then baste the edges along the entire perimeter;
• The last operation will be to perform a finishing seam at a distance of 1 cm.

This belt can visually make the waist thinner and slimmer. But it is not recommended to use it if the belly is very visible, as it will seem even bigger and rounder.

Sewing instructions

Step by step work:

• This style of product is quite simple and even a needlewoman with basic skills can handle the work. During the work, the risk of various errors is reduced to zero;
• First, you need to cut out the skirt elements according to the pattern. It is recommended to iron the allowances well. To do this, fold the excess and go over it with a hot iron two or three times. The temperature should not be higher than 110 degrees;
• From the inside, secure both halves with pins. The skirt needs to be basted, and only then can sewing begin. To do this, put intermediate seams, using threads in the same tone as the fabric;

• Next, work begins on the sewing machine. Carefully stitch the halves together. Remove the previously made seams using a stationery knife or roller.
• The last stage will be the place of the belt and the bottom. Fold the top row twice, capturing about 2 centimeters. Make a zigzag seam. On the bottom row, it is advisable to cut off no more than two centimeters. Perform the final hemming.

It is recommended that all sewing be done exclusively on a machine, especially if a dense material such as chintz or linen was chosen.

Sewing without a pattern

Everything is much simpler here. You need fabric of the desired width and length. Cut out two pieces from it and sew them together, making a wrap. The edges of the material must be processed on an overlock or manually. Instead of a zipper, it is better to use buttons and a belt.

In conclusion, it should be noted that it is very easy to sew a pencil skirt yourself. This is one of the popular and simple styles of the product. For a beginner, it is recommended to learn how to take measurements, since for such a skirt it is quite difficult to do this the first time. Patterns for a pencil skirt can be taken from old skirts or searched for on the Internet. And of course, it is advisable to do the work with four hands, so that the first sewing is not marred by unpleasant situations in the form of a too short or wide product.