Each construction of a clothing model is made on the basis of a basic pattern, which is a development on the plane of the figure of the person for whom it is necessary to sew a wardrobe element or make an additional accessory to it. A shirt or skirt made according to a pattern fits tightly to the body, not restricting its movements, and the sleeves in the garment will not have folds or creases.
To take measurements for a dress and construct a pattern, you need to work as accurately and carefully as possible. If there are errors in the designations, then all the inaccuracies will appear in the finished version, and the product may not fit at all.
- How to take measurements correctly
- Procedure for taking measurements
- Neck circumference (Osh)
- Chest circumference (Og)
- Waist circumference (From)
- Hip circumference (Hips)
- Arm circumference (A) and wrist circumference (W)
- Back to waist length (Dts1 and Dts2)
- Front length to waist (FLW) and Chest height (CH)
- Hip height (Hip)
- Shoulder width (Shp)
- Center of the chest (Cg)
- Back width (BW)
- Chest Width(W)
- Armhole width (AW)
How to take measurements correctly
In school labor classes, girls were taught to take measurements for sewing. The most important rule was that a person cannot take measurements correctly on their own, so an assistant is needed.
According to GOST, it is recommended to take measurements in underwear, without shoes. The person being measured should stand up straight, not strain, maintain their usual posture, with their arms down and their heels together. The distance between the toes is 15-20 cm. It is recommended to wear shoes if they will later have a heel, which is why the length of the dress should be different.
Most measurements are taken with a measuring tape, which fits snugly to the body but does not deform soft tissues by tension.
Important! How to take measurements for a pattern for beginners - fix a tape on the waist, which will show its correct location. The thread should not tighten the waist too much, since the seams in the finished dress can easily come apart if the product is tight. The measurements taken are recorded in the table: the length - in full, and the girths - in half the size (the drawing is built on half of the figure).
Procedure for taking measurements
How to correctly take measurements from a woman's figure for a dress:
- remove them from the right side of the figure;
- It is advisable for the customer (the one who is being measured) to be wearing the underwear that he plans to wear later. This is especially true for bras, as they come in different styles, which can cause the center of the chest to shift.
Please note! Children's clothing is a "smaller" version of adult clothing. The same measurements are taken from a child as from a woman or a man. In some cases, reference data can help (for example, head circumferences for children up to six months fluctuate from 35 to 44 cm, from 1-2 years - 46-48, then, with each year, 2 cm is added, other measurements, as a rule, are equal to the baby's height).
All measurements are taken in a specific order, with the customer standing in front of the seamstress.
Neck circumference (Osh)
The full neck circumference is measured at its base. This is slightly above the seventh cervical vertebra and closes above the jugular notch.
Chest circumference (Og)
The tape is applied quite tightly, passes horizontally, bending around the body through the protruding points of the chest. Closes on the right side. The measurement is very important, since it determines the future size of the clothes.
Waist circumference (From)
It is made strictly horizontally. The tape goes around the narrowest part of the figure in the waist area.
Hip circumference (Hips)
The centimeter is drawn horizontally along the most protruding parts of the buttocks and hips, the protrusion of the abdomen is taken into account, if any. Also at this stage it is permissible to immediately measure the height of the hip
Arm circumference (A) and wrist circumference (W)
The wrist circumference is measured horizontally, completely encircling the wrist. These measurements can be used to determine what body type a person belongs to.
The arm circumference is taken in the area of the biceps and elbow bend. This measurement is necessary for the pattern of a dress with a tight sleeve.
Additional information! How to take measurements for a dress more accurately for a beginner - prepare an elastic band for measurements to mark the waist line, and a special shoulder pad sewn by yourself, which is made from unnecessary scraps of fabric and tape. Such a pad is suitable for any figure, and the measurements will be taken qualitatively.
Back to waist length (Dts1 and Dts2)
The DTS is removed from the seventh vertebra (base of the neck) to the waist vertically:
- Dts1 - takes into account the protrusion of the blades;
- Dts2 — total length: the centimeter is not removed, the back measurement is recorded, and then the measurement continues to the waist through the highest point of the chest. This measurement is a check, which will allow you to analyze the drawing in its finished form.
Front length to waist (FLW) and Chest height (CH)
The DTP is measured starting from the base of the neck (the highest point of the neckline), passing through the highest point of the chest (at this stage it is recorded as Bg - chest height), and then reaches the waist line.
Please note! Bg is an important measurement that is taken taking into account the shape of the underwear and the position of the chest in it. It is important to clarify everything so as not to change the position of the dart later. If the chest is raised high, then the center is lowered by 0.5-1 cm. This is especially important when embroidering a product from a stiff, linen fabric.
What measurements should be taken to sew a dress? There are 11 measurements, including the length of the finished product. Additional measurements may be added depending on the style.
Hip height (Hip)
The starting point is the waist line, from which the distance to the hip line is measured using a centimeter - this is the height of the hips.
Shoulder width (Shp)
The measurement is taken starting from the base of the neck to the point where the arm joins the shoulder. Often this measurement is accompanied by a measurement of the arm length.
Center of the chest (Cg)
It is performed horizontally between the protruding points of the mammary glands.
There are two categories:
- Цг1 - is written at half size, by hand at a distance of up to 1.5 cm. Strictly horizontally and in the center.
- Цг2 — measured above the base of the mammary gland between the armpits. Also should be written in half.
Back width (BW)
Measured strictly horizontally along the protruding point of each shoulder blade from one arm to the other at the level of the armpits.
Important! For this measurement, the widest part of the back is taken. The protrusions of the shoulder blades, how they are located, the curvature of the back are necessarily taken into account - all this is necessary for constructing the darts of the shoulder blades and the middle line of the back. Under no circumstances should the centimeter be tucked into the armpits.
Chest Width(W)
It is divided into 2 dimensions:
- Шг1 - is performed horizontally, following the base of each mammary gland between a vertical line, mentally drawn from the anterior lower corner of the armpit;
- Шг2 - is made between two vertical lines, which are also mentally drawn from the front lower corner of the armpit hollow, bypassing the protruding points of the chest.
Armhole width (AW)
The arm should be freely lowered. The tape is placed at the level of the posterior corner of the armpit and directed towards the anterior corner.
After taking all the measurements, you can calmly start preparing the pattern - the basis of the dress. It is worth remembering about a small allowance so that the fit is looser. If desired, the measurements taken can be compared with typical ones, which are always freely available on the Internet, in fashion magazines.
