Every beginning seamstress has faced the need to work with natural and artificial leather. For example, creating a skirt, doll decorations, different types of crafts looks stylish, original. Patterns for leather are often used in the studio.
- What animal skins are used for sewing products?
- Specifics of working with leather and requirements for a furrier
- Tools and materials
- Features of leather goods sewing technology
- For each product, you need to select the grade and type of leather
- Not every sewing machine can sew leather
- You need to cut the leather with a special shoe knife
- Leather sewing technology requires special feet
- Working with leather is impossible without glue
- The buttons are sewn onto the leather with a button underneath.
- How to sew leather by hand
- How to sew leather on a sewing machine
- How to install fittings on leather goods
What animal skins are used for sewing products?
How to sew from leather? Sewing leather products involves choosing the type of source material. Natural material comes from various animals:
- Cattle - calves, bulls, cows, buffalo. Large area of material, strength, elasticity - indicators for the production of shoes, bags, headwear, and outerwear.
- Pork - inferior in quality to the previous ones, but also has a high cost. Most often used as a shoe lining. Modern raw material processing technology has allowed buyers to obtain soft suede as a result, as well as other materials that are suitable for creating various types of clothing, leather goods.
- Sheep is a soft, delicate material. The small size of sheepskin is mainly used for the production of gloves, and is especially valuable in the manufacture of bags, various accessories, and jewelry. In rare cases, the material is used to produce jackets.
- Goats - a thin, soft, wavy pattern is obtained. The difference from the previous version is that the skin is denser, more uniform in thickness, waterproof. The latter characteristic, especially the price in the production of shoes, clothes.
Additional information! The skin of a deer, elk, young stallion is highly technological and consumers often buy it. This raw material is the basis for sewing elite clothes and shoes. Exotic options suitable for sewing products are the skin of a reptile, crocodile, python, fish, stingray, ostrich.
Specifics of working with leather and requirements for a furrier
In the production of products, about 30 different types of leather are used, together with exotic types. Artificial material is cheaper, but natural fabrics look more beautiful, more elegant. For sewing, you need to contact a studio specializing in sewing things from this type of material. In high-level workshops, they will definitely not spoil the fabric. At the same time, customers can be sure of the quality of the finished product.
Types of furriers in different areas of work:
- Workshops with a focus on the production of outerwear: sheepskin coats, jackets, coats, raincoats. They also have experience working with fur products.
- Repairs, sewing of accessories: bags, gloves, belts, collars, masks.
- Atelier for sewing dresses, skirts, women's and men's suits, trousers.
Please note! It is worth avoiding professionals of general specializations, since the procedure for sewing each type of product is quite labor-intensive and requires a lot of time from the master.
It is recommended to contact the studio of seamstresses who have similar products in their portfolio.
Tools and materials
Parts of items made from thin material are cut out using regular tailor's scissors or zigzag scissors.
Hemming skirts and trousers with shaped cuts looks beautiful.
However, with rough leather, it is better to use not tailor's scissors, but a special knife. Otherwise, the tool will tear the fabric, cutting off an uneven edge. The tool is almost impossible to buy in a store, so it is easier to order the device from a professional. The material can also be processed using other devices. For example, a construction knife.
Please note! The blade is divided into several parts, which can be easily broken off with pliers, as a result the blade will become sharp again.
A thimble is essential when doing hand stitches. Even the most experienced craftsman will not be able to pierce several layers of fabric with bare hands without piercing his fingers. Advice: develop the habit of wearing a thimble.
Special sewing machines for sewing products are sold in stores, but if you have financial difficulties, you can remake regular machines from Podolsk and Singer.
It is necessary to perform stitches with a not thick, but strong thread. For example, LL45 - flax, lavsan. It is not recommended to use threads made of cotton material. Nylon thread will also do.
With the help of a correctly selected foot, the seamstress facilitates the process of advancing the material, reduces the displacement of the upper layers, achieving an even line.
You can't use chalk to mark the marks, as it won't leave any marks. A gel pencil will do the job. A bright ruler will do for working with dark fabrics, and it's better to use a transparent device when marking pockets.
Installing the fittings requires a small hammer, a punch, and a set of bushings that will help to flare the metal fasteners.
Also, various types of adhesives, double-sided adhesive tape or soft glue are used in production.
Additional information! The above is a basic, but not complete list of tools for sewing the product.
Features of leather goods sewing technology
Sewing leather goods on a machine differs from processing standard materials. For sewing, you need to use a special foot, specialized sewing needles.
The special feature is that the parts are connected by gluing, rather than leaving seam allowances.
Recommendations:
- Use strong, elastic thread.
- Take into account the direction of the pile.
- Iron the leather with a cool iron without steam through a dry cloth. Always from the inside out.
- Use a special fabric foot with a roller - this will help prevent the process of stretching out the pieces.
- Refresh the item after finishing work. The marking line is removed using soapy water and ammonia. To give the surface a shine, you can wipe the item with a rag soaked in Vaseline or glycerin.
- Painting items made of natural material. To paint, spray paint from an aerosol can, holding the can 20 cm away from the desired area. For even coverage, do not hold the can in one position for a long time. It is also not recommended to use paint when completely painting an item or changing the color of the leather. Aerosols are used to partially refresh the surface.
For each product, you need to select the grade and type of leather
The type of raw material and the processing technology affect the thickness of the leather. A specific type is selected for each product. For example, when sewing jewelry, the material used for making gloves is kid leather. Bags, wallets, backpacks, belts, seat covers, and guns are sewn from hard types with rough processing. This helps to give the product its shape.
If you need to sew a fur vest with a leather insert or trim, you need to use dense but soft materials, since coarse material will stick out, and thin material will tear at the joint.
Not every sewing machine can sew leather
Soft leather is sewn on sewing machines with regular needles No. 80, No. 90 - for fabric. When sewing rough materials, you need to use a special sewing needle, where the tip looks like a blade with two or four edges. This will make it easier to pierce rough leather, leaving an invisible mark and preventing skipped stitches and broken threads.
Even to replace a zipper on a leather product, you need to use an industrial sewing machine that can sew leather. Otherwise, the device and needle will break and the item will be ruined.
Please note! The instruction manual should indicate the possibility of sewing leather. If there is no such mark, it is better not to try to use the device for sewing leather.
However, old sewing machines "Podolsk", "Singer" can confidently sew leather. Of course, even to replace the zipper, you will have to put in a lot of effort, but with a little experience, perseverance, the seamstress will get an excellent result.
You need to cut the leather with a special shoe knife
When cutting leather patterns with a shoe knife, you first need to place a plastic or wooden backing under the material.
Important! You need to put the knife back into the sheath.
Leather sewing technology requires special feet
It is recommended to put a newspaper or soap under the sewing foot. Afterwards, the paper particles are removed. In this case, a special foot in the form of a roller is used. The device will remove the resistance of the material surfaces, while not weakening the pressure of the fabric to the slats.
Working with leather is impossible without glue
Before working with leather, you need to buy a tube of rubber glue. The glue is applied with a brush to a clean, degreased surface. After processing, you need to let the product dry. You can also use a special adhesive tape that has glue on both sides.
The buttons are sewn onto the leather with a button underneath.
Any product is complemented by different types of fittings. The holes for the buttons are punched, reinforced with a piece of leather, gluing the fabric. Special tools are required for installation. Buttons are sewn to a leather product in pairs with others from the inside.
How to sew leather by hand
When sewing leather goods with your own hands, you use a regular awl and a hook. With its help, you make punctures through which the thread then passes. This method is especially useful when sewing areas that have an intersection of rough seams, as well as hard-to-reach places. Nylon threads are suitable for hand sewing.
How to sew leather on a sewing machine
How to stitch leather on a regular sewing machine? Machine stitching necessarily includes the presence of special needles, a foot for leather. The threads for the device must be strong, elastic.
Important! Make a strong knot at the beginning and end, since the machine does not secure the stitch, the line will unravel.
How to install fittings on leather goods
Buttons are sewn on only on both sides of the item. Before installing the zipper, it is necessary to secure the insertion point. The cut edges are glued with a special leather reinforcement.
There are many books freely available on the Internet for learning sewing technology. The article also discusses in detail the features of the process of "sewing from leather". If you have an idea about a leather pattern, the main thing is to follow the rules for working with the material and not to rush.
